www .PersonalCarNegotiator.com
BUYING & LEASING A VEHICLE HAS NEVER BEEN THIS EASY
HOW IT ALL WORKS
CELEBRATING 10 YEARS NEGOTIATING
ON-LINE IN 2012 FOR THE
BENEFIT OF YOU, THE CONSUMER
- I service all 50 States.
- You hire me to represent you via e-mail and phone to negotiate with the dealerships of your choice. (In-Person is also available within 50 mile radius of New York City, N.Y. See the bottom of the services price list)
- You tell me the year, make, model, equipment, color etc. If NEW the MSRP (sticker price) via the "contact us page" If you already have a VIN# or SERIAL# please include that also.
- I will confirm the exact vehicle with you.
- Before I negotiate with the dealership I will e-mail you a copy of the window sticker of the exact vehicle I will negotiate (if new).
- Everything I do for you is always "in your best interests". I work for YOU! Not the dealership!
- If you are considering a Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle or a Used Vehicle, I will check out the CarFax for any IRREGULARITIES. You need to really understand what the CarFax actually says besides the big problems like being in an accident, mileage rollback, salvage, taxi, police car etc. these are the OBVIOUS problems. You must read between the lines to understand if the vehicle has any ongoing mechanical problems. It is right there in front of your face but most people do not see it. They simply look for the obvious problems.
- After I finish negotiating with the dealership, I e-mail you an EXCEL spreadsheet that breaks down all of the numbers and actually shows you the least expensive way to pay for the vehicle.
- You will see the Lease payment and total cost of Leasing.
- You will see the Special LOW A.P.R. Finance payment and total cost of using LOW A.P.R.
- You will see regular Financing using the higher rebate and the total cost of regular financing
- You will see if Paying Cash is the smartest way to pay for the vehicle (if you have the cash). Very often you can save thousands of dollars by NOT paying cash. PLUS paying cash has its own risks where you can lose $10,000 in a year or two if your vehicle is totalled or stolen and not recovered.
- After I have discussed the EXCEL spreadsheet with you and you decide to go ahead with the deal, then I contact the dealership and give him your name. I give you a "deal number" which is how the dealership stores every deal they work on the showroom floor. That deal number will match exactly to the EXCEL spreadsheet I e-mailed to you and discussed all of the figures.
- NOW YOU SIMPLY GO DOWN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND ASK FOR THE PERSON I TOLD YOU TO SEE. GIVE THEM THE DEAL NUMBER, AND THAT PERSON WILL EXECUTE THE PAPERWORK EXACTLY AS I REVIEWED IT WITH YOU. YOU HAVE ZERO STRESS AND YOU KNOW EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU WALK INTO THE DEALERSHIP. IT IS TRULY THE EASIEST WAY TO BUY OR LEASE A VEHICLE.
- If there is a Trade-In, I e-mail you a very detailed sheet for you to fill out while you are looking at your trade-in. YOU ARE MY EYES! PLEASE BE VERY DETAILED AND HONEST ABOUT WHAT YOU SEE. After you complete the customer trade-in evaluation form then save it to your computer and e-mail it back to me. I am extremely good at appraising all vehicles. I have been appraising vehicles for 28 years, I know exactly what I am doing.
- The next step with a trade-in is very easy. Call me in advance so I know when you are going to the dealership in person. The deal will already be set-up in the dealerships computer as mention before. You have their appraiser appraise your trade-in. Then you call me on the phone and I will be ready to negotiate your trade-in value over the phone with the dealerships appraiser. It is really that simply. I make buying or leasing a car FUN AGAIN for you without the stress most people have to put up with from salespeople and sales managers.
- I have 28 years managing some of the largest volume dealerships in Northern New Jersey. I can NOT be tricked or deceived into paying more money. In order to receive the BEST deal each component of the deal MUST BE KEPT SEPARATE. The price must be separate from the trade-in. Interest rates must be discussed BEFORE monthly payments. Money Factors for leasing must be discussed BEFORE monthly lease payments. Any and all Fees must be kept separate. If you purchase an Extended Warranty, it must be ONLY the manufacturer of the vehicle' warranty. Insurance based warranties are not accepted nationwide nor are they as comprehensive of coverage. Dealership based warranties are the absolute worst because they are only valid at the dealership you purchased it. Any other products you may wish to purchase such as alarm system, remote starter, LoJack retrieve etc. must all be kept separate to be sure you are not getting ripped off!
- The salespeople and sales managers will always want to lump everything together and only talk about monthly payments! This is NOT GOOD for the consumer! They want to avoid telling you the actual prices of everything so they can charge more money and they also want to avoid telling you the interest rate so they can charge you a higher rate.
- EVERYTHING ABOUT AN AUTOMOBILE PURCHASE OR LEASE IS NEGOTIABLE!
- I MEAN LITERALLY EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE: Selling Price, Trade-In Value, Interest Rate for a Finance Loan, Money Factor for the Lease, Bank Fee, Dealership Documentary Fee, M.V.Fees, Extended Warranty, Alarms Systems, Remote Starters, LoJack Retrieve, EQUITY in your terminating leased vehicle (YES, that is right! you probably have equity in your terminating leased vehicle depending on vehicle make, model, mileage and condition. This has not happened since the late 1980's, however because the stock market crashed in 2008 NEW Automobile sales fell to an all time low of only 10 million vehicles. Compare this to an average year which was about 16 million and a good year of 18 million new vehicles sold. Manufacturers pulled back on their residual values fearing the worse is yet to come. As a result of lower residual values and pooor automobile sales over the last three years there is a shortage of used vehicles which makes them worth more then the residual value.) (Smart sales managers are garbbing this extra profit for themselves because the average consumer does NOT know the intracacies of a lease transaction.)
- Anything you may want to add to the vehicle is NEGOTIABLE! Plus if you are adding a "HARD ADD" meaning something that enhances the vehicles value at the end of the lease (example: DVD Entertainment System or Power Moon Roof etc.), that "HARD ADD" must be residualized or you will be cheated out of 50% of the cost of the item so fast, it will make you head spin. Let us say the dealership adds a rear DVD Entertainment system for $1000. They charge you $1000 and tell you your payment will go up about $30 per month for 36 months. In realality, about half of the cost of the DVD system goes into the residual value increasing the purchase option at the end of the lease, so ONLY $500 IS ACTUALLY ADDED TO THE COST OF THE LEASE OR ABOUT $15 per month. By charging you $30 additional the salesperson just increased the profit of the deal by $15 times 36 months which equals $540 YOU JUST OVERPAID WITHOUT EVER REALIZING IT.
- Also, when you want more then the 10,000 miles advertised on the lease, how much more you pay is also one of the biggest scams in the car business. If you do not understand how each leasing company handles additional mileage upfront you will ALWAYS BE RIPPED OFF!
- Getting the best deal means you must know exactly what you are doing and must know all of the "tricks" and "deceptive practices" most every salesperson, manager and finance manager employs.
- Trust me, I work for you. My loyalty is with you. I do not accept any payment of any kind from any dealerships. It is a conflict of interests and is also ILLEGAL! It is against the law to be a negotiator and accept payment from both parties involved. I only charge you a small fee. It is the best money you will ever spend, I promise you!
- I negotiate any Year, Make or Model Vehicle.
- Brand New Vehicle = I comparison shop 3 dealerships of your choice. I know what the dealership pays for the vehicles. I negotiate so that you paying BELOW invoice using all customer rebates and dealer incentives. EXAMPLE: Let us say the MSRP is $25,000 and Invoice is $22,000. There is a $1000 customer cash rebate and a $1500 dealer cash incentive. (dealer cash incentives are generally NOT known to the general public, however I am aware of all dealer incentives) I negotiate as close to the invoice price as possible then subtract the customer rebate and the dealer cash rebate. Let us say for example only I negotiate the deal to $22,100 ($100 over invoice) then I subtract $1000 customer cash and $1500 dealer cash for a final selling price of $19,600 (which is $2,400 BELOW INVOICE)
- Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle = I comparison shop 4 dealerships of your choice. These vehicles are generally off-lease vehicles sold to the dealership by the vehicle manufacturer after they receive them back from customers who terminated their lease. These vehicles also come with a Manufacturers warranty of some sorts which varies by Manufacturer. Mileage and color vary so I include 4 vehicles in my comparison shopping. I have full access to the auction prices dealers are paying for the certified vehicles. "Certified" vehicle will always cost more then a non-certified vehicle simply because a "Certified" vehicle has a manufacturers warranty on it and the dealership is obligated to follow a certification checklist for the vehicle to be eligible for the factory warranty. As a result, certified vehicles are "market ready". "Certified" vehicle MUST meet the criteria set by the manufacturer in order to be eligible to be "certified". Some examples are a minimum amount of: tire tread left, break pads left, rotors left etc. Vehicle must be serviced at the proper intervals etc.
- Any Used Vehicle = I comparison shop 5 dealerships of your choice. The reason I do 5 vehicles is because a good used car is hard to find. I do everything described above If you are considering a Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle or a Used Vehicle PLUS a non-certified vehicle MUST be brought to a new car dealership or a mechanic you trust to check out the Engine, Powertrain, A/C etc. Generally this will cost $75-$100 but I DO NOT RECOMMEND BUYING A NON-CERTIFIED VEHICLE WITHOUT A MECHANICS APPROVAL!
CELEBRATING 10 YEARS NEGOTIATING
ON-LINE IN 2012 FOR THE
BENEFIT OF YOU, THE CONSUMER
Personal Car Negotiator is owned and operated by
Lease4Less.Info LLC
1360 Clifton Ave #369 Clifton, N.J. 07012
e-mail: ed@PersonalCarNegotiator.com
OR
e-mail: edwardjuliano@yahoo.com
phone : 973-809-3745 ask for "Edward"
Serving the public since 2002 - Incorporated September 2006
Accredited Member of the BBB of New Jersey since March 2008
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - COPYRIGHT 2002-2012
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